Ecuador’s Golden Triangle
You’d never guess that the otherworldliness of the Ecuador’s Andean Cloud Forest on the outskirts of Quito is actually inside the metropolitan district, making it quite accessible — with a very good driver and a bit of effort, that is. Together with its capital city Quito and the Galápagos archipelago, the cloud forest is two-thirds of Ecuador’s Golden Triangle. Alas, the wonders of Galápagos must wait for another trip.
Tip: Bring a large refillable water bottle and plan to carry it everywhere.
Visitors arrive at Mariscal Sucre International Airport in Quito for the 45-minute transfer to the elegant Casa Gangotena Boutique Hotel in the heart of Old Town. Your ears aren’t quite sure whether to pop or not; at 7,874 feet in elevation, this is one of the world’s highest airports and capital cities. Start drinking water right away to avoid dehydration during your high altitude stay. Also, it’s best not to be the nervous type, since Quito is surrounded by active volcanoes.
Tip: Ecuador’s currency is US dollars. The electricity and outlets match our own. The time zone is the same as Eastern time in the US. There are only two seasons: wet and dry; despite being so near the Equator, temperatures are never extreme.
Quito Old Town
When it comes to high altitude sickness, I am told, some people suffer, some don’t. (I did.) With a wonderful local guide leading the way, we embarked on two days experiencing the charms of Quito: massive Gothic and gilded Baroque churches, artisan makers’ shops, neighborhood food market, a ceviche cooking class, chocolate tasting and a cable car ride. Pace yourself, breathe, and take it slow; this well preserved colonial Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, covers 173 acres.
A standout stop in Quito is the contemporary art museum and former home of humanitarian Oswaldo Guayasamín (1919 – 1999), Ecuador’s most famous and important artist.
Then, anticipating an early morning start for the cloud forest, we enjoyed a quick look at the view of Old Town from Casa Gangotena’s terrace and a quiet dinner followed by mint tea in the hotel’s dining room and lounge.
Trade in your daily humdrum for a biodiverse hotspot for hovering hummingbirds and colorful toucans in a subtropical cloud forest. Admire tiny night frogs and brush up against lush green leaves that grow larger than a newborn’s blanket.
Eco-Friendly Mashpi Lodge
Your drive into the private protected reserve is a bumpy one on narrow, windy, unpaved roads. Expect the unexpected: Ecuador’s Cloud Forest is one of the world’s best protected, most biodiverse regions. Home is the luxury Mashpi Lodge, a 24-room eco-lodge perched on a plateau in lush, misty surroundings, made of floor-to-ceiling glass for an inside/outside guest experience that’s punctuated by sightings of fascinating flora and birds.
This is a magical place. You’ll be keen to join the guided Night Walk when sounds of the rainforest permeate the stillness, coming together in a symphony you’ve never heard before. And you’ll be left wondering in amazement how the lodge manages to transport fresh produce, meat, fish and staples through the to the kitchen for such excellent food and drink on the daily menu.
Tip: Mashpi Lodge has Wellington boots, ponchos, and binoculars for guests’ use, plus water bottles and insect repellent. Remember to pack hat, socks and sunblock.
Bird Watchers’ Paradise
Find out why Mashpi Lodge is called an “ornithological utopia.” Blue-headed parrot, purple-bibbed whitetip, crimson-rumped toucanet…names like these roll of the tongues of expert guides as they point out birds to catch in your scope. Nearly 400 species have been identified, including 36 endemic ones, meaning these birds are not found elsewhere on the planet…and all that before breakfast.
At Mashpi Lodge, your expert guided outings are included as well as transfers to/from Quito, meals, and Wi-Fi. Some activities have a supplement; my favorite was the roundtrip ride aboard the Dragonfly Canopy Gondola. I shared the cable car with another guest, a commercial jet pilot, who offered me peeks through his quality binoculars. Whoa…the waterfalls! Some 650 feet above the ground, yet at times close enough to touch the trees, this two-hour open air excursion offers 360° views of both the cloud forest and the rainforest. Feeling energetic? Pedal through the treetops on your own contraption, Sky Bike.
