Le Comptoir translates to “the counter,” a more-than-humble moniker for Michelin-starred Bar Crenn’s multi-course dining experience. Imagined by the inimitable Dominique Crenn, the maximum 10 seat, one service-nightly (Wednesday – Sunday), two-hour offering takes place, yes, at the bar counter, from behind which numerous chefs and mixologists choreograph a culinary presentation to rival your favorite theatrical offering. But unlike at the Orpheum or the Curran, this performance encourages audience participation, its principals more than happy to engage those with a front row seat to the cuisine and crafted cocktail action.
With the newest iteration of Le Comptoir (opened in 2018), Bar Crenn maintains its reputation as one of the city’s swankiest spots in which to both imbibe and dine, illustrated by its repeat, annual Michelin star designation. The velvet banquettes, the low slung tables, and the epic, vinyl record-lined wall continue to provide a sultry backdrop to the Le Comptoir dining experience at the marble bar. And a recent touch-up from Hollywood set designer and Crenn buddy Ethan Tobman (the two bonded while working together on the set of Searchlight Pictures’ The Menu) adds a bit of additional pizzaz. The ambiance is relaxed, yet elevated, with a bit of French ooh-la-la combined with Japanese-inspired HiFi listening bar-vibes. (The record collection is not just for show; guests are welcome to make requests and inspiration is often found in the bar’s coasters—tiny vinyl replicas of classic albums. Think The Dark Side of the Moon and Aladdin Sane.)
But it’s the Bar Crenn team, most of whom also share adjacent Atelier Crenn kitchen duties, that elevates the Le Comptoir experience. The chef team works in sync, shifting roles with each course, displaying wit, humor, and the composure necessary to artistically plate and serve while answering a multitude of guest questions. The experience, featuring pescatarian, nut-free, and dairy-free menu items, offers an intimate look inside the chefs’ craft; dialogue includes stories of product procurement, inspiration, and the secret behind inventive culinary techniques. The menu, inspired by Chef Crenn’s travels and the season’s best produce and seafood, changes every two months or so, with a possible variation in particular items depending on seasonality.
On this night, the menu entailed:
- A starter of Beetroot & Caviar served with a seeded cracker;
- Lobster Mushroom Bao Bun, preceded by an encased display of the mushroom in its organic state;
- Cuttlefish & Bouillabaisse;
- A dramatic, shell-opening presentation of one perfect Scallop, sprinkled with shaved, dry cured tuna heart which imparts a briny, umami flavor, reminiscent of bottarga;
- An always welcome bread course of Sourdough Epi with Cannellini Bean “butter;”
- Incredibly succulent poached Halibut with sauced ramp and a side of carrot, ceremoniously released from the clay envelope in which it was baked:
- A demitasse cup of siphon-brewed dashi, lemon, and noir Fish Broth;
- And for dessert, Atelier Crenn’s pastry chefs took the “stage” to present a GPS Popsicle of guava, passionfruit and sea buckthorn. A mignardise selection followed.
Bar Crenn being first and foremost a cocktail lounge, aperitif and beverage pairings are a must. With the tools—and the agility—of chemists, the bar team fashions a remarkable collection of thoroughly original tipples, each a reimagination of the classics. The Timur, for instance, Bar Crenn’s citrusy perspective on the timeless Negroni, is made with Timur Peppercorn, pink grapefruit, vermouth, Campari, and Beefeater Gin. (My bar seat neighbor proclaimed it the best cocktail she’s ever tasted). The Santos features salted Pomelo Juice, lemon & Campari, and is the bar’s take on the classic Garibaldi. The mixologists work their magic on other classics, such as the Paper Plane, the Hanky Panky, and the popular Espresso Martini. Coursed pairings might pull from these selections, with the inclusion of a few wines and perhaps even a mocktail, of which incredible flavor makes the absence of alcohol negligible.
Theater production, or Le Comptoir? A show, even a Tony winner, can’t satisfy, satiate, and entertain like a Le Comptoir meal.
$198 per person, exclusive of beverages. Beverage pairing is $130; non-alcohol beverage pairing is $75.
Upcoming Le Comptoir & Atelier Crenn Events:
- Dates: September 11th & 12th, 2024 at Le Comptoir
- Price: $400 per person (not inclusive of tax & gratuity)
- Reservations: Available on Tock, HERE
- Date: September 26th, 2024 at Le Comptoir
- Price: $500 per person (not inclusive of tax & gratuity)
- Reservations: Available on Tock, HERE
- Date: September 23rd, 2024 at Atelier Crenn
- Price: $600 per person (not inclusive of tax & gratuity)
- Reservations: Available on Tock, HERE
Featured image is by Tricia Brazil